3 things l learned from surfing that can change your life forever. Day 10

I fucked up today… Didn’t wake up at 5.30, didn’t hear the alarm, didn’t do my morning routine. But guess what I did instead – I went surfing ))

In the past, I would beat myself up over this slip-up, but now I don’t care, I just go with the flow.

Besides, I woke up by myself today at 6.30! Extra hour of sleep definitely helped.

This is sort of special edition because I’m typing the post right this very moment on my phone. Mostly because I want to capture the moment right here and right now while the sun is warming me up and the wind is refreshing my thoughts.

Plus there is a big chance that if I leave now, I’ll never write anything because I’ll need to jump right into my family life 😉

Ok gents, let’s get back to the 3 things I promised you.

I got so inspired by those 3 things that I even got out of the water 20 minutes earlier to share them with u guys. Unthinkable!

Ok let’s go. Thing number one:

WAIT – just fucking learn to wait! In surfing you have to constantly exercise this muscle.

Most of the time you just sit on the lineup (the spot where waves start to break) and wait, and wait, and wait some more..

I’m sure u can see how that translate to real-life. We all want results fast, lose weight, get more money, better car, bigger house. We want it NOW! Gotta learn to wait guys…

Here is what happens when you wait – you sit on the lineup for 20 minutes, nothing happens.. you get a bit discouraged.. you not as focused anymore.. you relax a bit.. get distracted by other things.. and then

BOOM – the giant wave comes in, the wave u were waiting for 30 minutes and wipes u out!

Now we get to the thing number two:


Let me tell u a story. I was in Costa Rica for a month in February. One day I was sitting on the lineup (where else would I be, right? :)). The waves got smaller and smaller. I relaxed my concentration a bit and started thinking about catching the last wave to call it a day.

Then out of nowhere, there was this HUGE wave that was approaching extremely fast. I could not catch it because I didn’t expect it and was badly out of position. I could not escape either because I didn’t start paddling early enough, so I just stared at it as it approached me and then I jumped off my board right in time when that huge wave was about to break on my back…

It didn’t break on my back fortunately but it did break on my board and snapped it in half and I had to swim all the way back to shore.. I was VERY tired and sad when I finally got out of the water.. There were moments where I thought I would not make it back as I was so tired and waves kept breaking on me while I swam back..

What’s worse – that was not my board, I rented it from a really nice local guy who loved that board. He bought it in Germany about 15 years ago and usually didn’t rent it out. It was his personal favorite board and I BROKE IT!

Imagine how would u feel if you were in my situation.. I had to man up and tell the guy his board is gone..

All because of what?? Right, I WAS NOT READY and did not anticipate that wave.

I’m sure by know u already figured what I meant to say.

If not, here it is – you need to be ready to meet the opportunity that could change your life!

You need to constantly grow, put in the effort. Every day. Train your skills, your mind, and your body so that when the right opportunity presents itself, you are ready to take it.

How many stories did u hear about people who won huge amount of money playing lottery and then blew it all within a year. Some even die. Happens all the time!


Ok, moving to the last one as my wife (and life) is waiting while I’m in the zone typing on my phone..

Thing number three:


Real story from today. I started surfing and it was good for a while and then waves got smaller and almost stopped.

Those who surf def know what I mean, happens all the time. The tide changed, the wind changed. The point is – things change!

What did I do? I turned my head left and right, evaluated situation, paddled to a different spot a bit closer to the shore and the BOOM, I started getting good waves again! Yay!

What did most other surfers around me do?? NOTHING!

They were still sitting in the same old spot, hoping that the waves would magically return. That rarely happens in surfing.

Hell, it rarely happens in life as well! Once conditions change, there is a good probability they will stay the same for a long time!

That is why u need to evaluate your situation periodically and adjust, otherwise you may risk a huge waste of time, money and energy..

People around are already looking at me like I’m some kind of weirdo facebooking on my phone for an hour. My face and shoulders are probably sunburned as well. But I’m happy that was able to capture this message for those of you out there. Need to go now!


Wake up, Neo... The matrix has you...

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